Saturday, August 29, 2009

Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

Almost all versions of this recipe are tarted up in some way that seems pretentious to me. Prosciutto, Cream, Mushrooms, separated egg yolks and whites... This basic recipe, using only ingredients that can be obtained just as well in Arnold, CA as in Berkeley, comes from the so-far-out-of-print-it's-not-funny Food Stamp Gourmet (1971, Bellerophon Books).

1 lb. spaghetti (vermicelli works better, but is hard to find; they have stopped selling it because I like it)
4 eggs
1/2 lb. bacon
5 cloves garlic
1/2-3/4 cup freshly grated parmesan or asiago cheese, with more to serve
Pepper to taste

Cut the uncooked bacon crosswise into thin slices and fry over low heat, stirring to separate the slices. Don't get it completely crispy, but it should be beyond the chewy-fatty stage. If you don't almost have the pasta done when this is done, put it on the lowest heat possible while you do the rest.

Beat the eggs with a whisk or fork. Finely chop the garlic. Boil water and cook the spaghetti. When the pasta is almost done, add the garlic to the bacon, raising the heat if necessary to cook the garlic.

Drain the pasta and dump it back into the cooking pot. Pour the bacon, grease and all, into the pasta. Immediately add the beaten eggs and stir like a wild man; the idea is to scramble the eggs in little bits with the bacon and grease.

Once this seems to have stabilized, sprinkle the cheese in and stir until it is incorporated. Add pepper to taste, and salt, if you somehow are so salt-deprived that the salt in the bacon is not enough.

Serve from the cooking vessel with extra cheese at the table.

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